<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" standalone="yes"?>
<TEI xmlns="http://www.tei-c.org/ns/1.0">
  <teiHeader>
    <fileDesc>
      <titleStmt>
        <title type="main" level="a">The colour of Valencian silk fabrics in the European market (1475-1513)</title>
        <author>
          <persName n="1" ref="https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4225-2279" type="ORCID">
            <forename>Germán</forename>
            <surname>Navarro Espinach</surname>
            <placeName type="affiliation">University of Zaragoza, Spain</placeName>
          </persName>
          <persName n="2" ref="https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8102-4033" type="ORCID">
            <forename>Joaquín</forename>
            <surname>Aparici Martí</surname>
            <placeName type="affiliation">Universitat Jaume I, Spain</placeName>
          </persName>
        </author>
        <respStmt>
          <resp>This is a section of <title>La moda come motore economico: innovazione di processo e prodotto, nuove strategie commerciali, comportamento dei consumatori / Fashion as an economic engine: process and product innovation, commercial strategies, consumer behavior</title>(DOI: <idno type="DOI">10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3</idno>) by </resp>
          <name>Giampiero Nigro</name>
        </respStmt>
      </titleStmt>
      <publicationStmt>
        <publisher>Firenze University Press</publisher>
        <pubPlace>Firenze</pubPlace>
        <date when="2022">2022</date>
        <idno type="DOI">https://doi.org/10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.07</idno>
        <availability>
          <p>Available for academic research purposes</p>
          <p>Open Access</p>
          <p>Copyright Author(s)</p>
          <licence source="text" target="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/legalcode">
            <p>Content licence CC BY 4.0</p>
          </licence>
          <licence source="metadata" target="https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/legalcode">
            <p>Metadata licence CC0 1.0</p>
          </licence>
        </availability>
      </publicationStmt>
      <sourceDesc>
        <p>This is original content, published for academic research purposes</p>
      </sourceDesc>
    </fileDesc>
    <encodingDesc>
      <appInfo>
        <application version="2.2" ident="Booksflow">
          <desc>Digital edition XML powered by Booksflow</desc>
        </application>
      </appInfo>
    </encodingDesc>
    <profileDesc>
      <abstract xml:lang="en">
        <p>Our research compares guild ordinances, judicial proceedings, technical manuals of dyeing and especially fiscal sources in the Valencian archives to check the fashion trends on the colour of silks fabrics during the 15th-16th centuries in relation to what was happening in the European market at that time. The silk declarations in Valencia city from 1475 to 1513 makes it possible to establish a database of 3,871 fiscal registers with more than 90,000 meters of Valencian textiles (100,220 varas or alnes). The 73.47 percent of them was in black. This colour was also fashionable in the silk industry of Genoa, from where there was an important technological transfer to Valencia through the immigration of technical masters, workers and specialized businessmen.</p>
      </abstract>
      <textClass>
        <keywords>
          <list>
            <item>Silk</item>
            <item>Trade</item>
            <item>Colour</item>
            <item>Fashion</item>
            <item>Technological Innovation</item>
            <item>Valencia</item>
            <item>15th-16th Century</item>
          </list>
        </keywords>
      </textClass>
    </profileDesc>
  </teiHeader>
  <text>
    <body>
      <p>It is available online at https://doi.org/10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.07<ref target="https://doi.org/10.36253/978-88-5518-565-3.07" /></p>
      <div>
        <listBibl>
          <head>References</head>
          <bibl n="79371">Aleixandre Tena, Francisca. 1987. Cat&amp;#225;logo del Colegio del Arte Mayor de la Seda de Valencia. Valencia: Colegio del Arte Mayor de la Seda.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79372">Brunello, Franco. 1968. L’arte della tintura nella storia dell’umanit&amp;#224;. Vicenza: N. Pozza.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79373">Cardon, Dominique. 2014. Le monde des teintures naturelles. Nouvelle &amp;#233;dition revue et augment&amp;#233;e. Par&amp;#237;s: Belin Editeur.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79374">Cifuentes i Comamala, Llu&amp;#237;s, and Ricardo C&amp;#243;rdoba de la Llave. 2011. Tintorer&amp;#237;a y medicina en la Valencia del siglo XV: el manual de Joanot Valero. Madrid: Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Cient&amp;#237;ficas.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79375">Franch Benavent, Ricardo. 2012. Del vellut al espol&amp;#237;n. Estudios sobre la industria valenciana de la seda en la edad moderna. Valencia: Obrapropia.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79376">Franch Benavent, Ricardo, and Germ&amp;#225;n Navarro Espinach, ed. 2017. Las rutas de la seda en la historia de Espa&amp;#241;a y Portugal. Valencia: Publicacions de la Universitat de Val&amp;#232;ncia.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79377">Garc&amp;#237;a Marsilla, Juan Vicente. 2017. “Los colores del textil. Los tintes y el te&amp;#241;ido de los pa&amp;#241;os en la Valencia medieval.” In L’Histoire &amp;#224; la source: acter, compter, enregistrer (Catalogne, Savoie, Italie, XII-XV si&amp;#232;cle). M&amp;#233;langes offerts &amp;#224; Christian Guiller&amp;#233;, ed. Guido Castelnuovo, and Sandrine Victor, vol. 1, 283-315. Chamb&amp;#233;ry: Universit&amp;#233; Savoie Mont Blanc.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79378">Gargiolli, Girolamo. 1868. L’arte della seta in Firenze. Trattato del secolo XV. Firenze: G. Barber&amp;#224; Editore.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79379">Ghiara, Carola. 1976. L’arte tintoria a Genova dal XV al XVIII secolo. Technique e organizzazione. Genova: Centro di Studi per la Storia della Tecnica.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79380">Ghiara, Carola. 1991. “La tintura nera genovese: la migliore di quante se ne facesse nel mondo.” In Seta a Genova. 1491-1991, 18-28. Genova: Edizioni Colombo.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79381">Goldthwaite, Richard A. 2005. “An entrepreneurial silk weaver in Renaissance Florence”. I Tatti Studies: Essays in the Renaissance, 10: 69-126.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79382">Grohmann, Alberto. 2020. “L’uso delle fonti nella storia economica del Medioevo”. In En torno a la econom&amp;#237;a mediterr&amp;#225;nea medieval. Estudios dedicados a Paulino Iradiel, ed. Antoni Furi&amp;#243;, 25-39. Valencia: Publicacions de la Universitat de Val&amp;#232;ncia.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79383">Heers, Jacques. 1971. “La mode et les march&amp;#233;s des draps de laine: G&amp;#234;nes et la Montagne &amp;#224; la fin du Moyen &amp;#194;ge.” Annales. Economies, soci&amp;#233;t&amp;#233;s, civilisations, 26, 5: 1093-117.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79384">Iradiel, Paulino. 2019. “Fisco y pol&amp;#237;tica econ&amp;#243;mica de la manufactura urbana”. In Fisco, legitimidad y conflicto en los reinos hisp&amp;#225;nicos (siglos XIII-XVII), ed. Carlos Laliena, Mario Lafuente, and &amp;#193;ngel Gal&amp;#225;n, 141-64. Zaragoza: Prensas de la Universidad de Zaragoza.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79385">Llibrer Escrig, Antoni. 2020. “Tejidos de color en el campo. Saber t&amp;#233;cnico, costes y gesti&amp;#243;n del tintado en &amp;#225;mbito rural.” Meridies. Estudios de Historia y Patrimonio de la Edad Media, 11: 91-115.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79386">Massa, Paola. 1981. La ‘fabbrica’ dei velluti genovesi da Genova a Zoagli. Genova: Libri Scheiwiller.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79387">Massa, Paola. 1992. “I coloranti del nuovo mondo e l’industria tessile europea: tra economia e tecnica, 1492-1992”. In 1492-1992. Animale e piante dalle Americhe all’Europa, ed. Lilia Capocaccia Orsini, and Giorgio Doria, 233-49. Genova: SAGEP.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79388">Mol&amp;#224;, Luca. 2000. The Silk Industry of Renaissance Venice. Baltimore-London: The Johns Hopkins University.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79389">Molas Ribalta, Pere. 1994. “La pol&amp;#237;tica del tinte en la Espa&amp;#241;a del siglo XVIII”. Espacio, Tiempo y Forma. Serie IV, H&amp;#170; Moderna, 7: 55-68.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79390">Mu&amp;#241;oz Pomer, Mar&amp;#237;a Rosa. 1987. Or&amp;#237;genes de la Generalidad Valenciana. Valencia: Generalitat Valenciana.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79391">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n. 1998. “Reconstruction of the craft techniques of the silk-dyers of Valencia, 15th-16th century”. In Pastel, Indigo et autres Teintures naturelles: Pass&amp;#233;, Pr&amp;#233;sent, Futur. 2e Congr&amp;#232;s International, ed. Dominique Cardon et al., 151-4. Arnstadt: Th&amp;#252;ringer Chronik-Verlag, H. E. M&amp;#252;llerot.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79392">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n. 1999. Los or&amp;#237;genes de la seder&amp;#237;a valenciana (siglos XV-XVI). Valencia: Ajuntament de Val&amp;#232;ncia.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79393">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n. 2018. Los tintoreros de seda de Valencia. Libro de ordenanzas y real c&amp;#233;dula que cre&amp;#243; su Colegio y Arte (siglos XV-XVIII). Valencia: Colegio del Arte Mayor de la Seda.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79394">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n. 2020a. “Las familias de sederos judeoconversos de la Corona de Arag&amp;#243;n en el siglo XV”. eHumanista/Conversos, 8: 199-224.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79395">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n. 2020b. “Fifteenth-Century Spanish Velvet Production”. In Velvets of the Fifteenth Century, ed. Michael Peter, 193-202. Riggisberg: Abegg-Stiftung.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79396">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n. 2022. “Textiles in the Crown of Aragon: Production, commerce, consumption”. In Textiles of Medieval Iberia. Cloth and clothing in a multi-cultural context, ed. Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Maria Barrig&amp;#243;n, Nahum Ben-Yehuda, and Joana Sequeira. New York: Boydell &amp;amp; Brewer.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79397">Navarro Espinach, Germ&amp;#225;n, and Ricard Huerta, ed. 2020. Museos de la Seda/Silk Museums. Valencia: Colegio del Arte Mayor de la Seda.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79398">Rebora, Giovanni. 1970. Un manuale di tintoria del Quattrocento. Milano: Giuffr&amp;#232;.</bibl>
          <bibl n="79399">Tognetti, Sergio. 2002. Un’industria di lusso al servizio del grande commercio: Il mercato dei drappi serici e della seta nella Firenze del Quattrocento. Firenze: Leo S. Olschki.</bibl>
        </listBibl>
      </div>
    </body>
  </text>
</TEI>